Just because you’re not lucky enough to live in Bisbee doesn’t mean you can’t eat as if you do. Bisbee Breakfast Club brought their “Bit of Bisbee” to their new Tucson location, which opened on Halloween inside the Broadway Village Shopping Center. Once a couple weeks had passed, we figured we might be able to get a table without too long a wait, and headed their way.
Coffee, orange juice, and the BBC Bloody Mary ($8.49) were our breakfast beverage picks. The coffee was a hit with the coffee drinkers at the table: The beans are roasted by Ombre Coffee, a sister company to Bisbee Breakfast Club that is headquartered at the BBC Ina location in Tucson, where they roast coffee for Bisbee Breakfast Club’s five locations. Their first location opened in Bisbee in 2005; another is in Mesa, and the other three are in Tucson. Co-owner Terry Kyte tells me that the back of the new BBC Broadway location will eventually function as both the flagship retail store for Ombre and a stand-alone coffee shop, with later hours than the restaurant.
The orange juice was sweet and fresh, and Bisbee Breakfast Club’s premium take on the Bloody Mary, made with Grey Goose vodka, arrived artfully garnished with a pickled green bean and a chunk of sharp white cheddar in addition to the requisite celery, olive, and lemon wedge, with a dry spice mix on the rim. While the menu cautions that the BBC Bloody Mary packs a fair amount of heat, I personally found that I wanted still more spice, and once I’d added some Tabasco and the juice from my lemon wedge, the flavor was just about right. While the booze menu is a recent addition and currently restricted to Bloody Marys and Mimosas, Kyte says they’re working on adding more drinks as they go.
Our food arrived quickly despite the full dining room. The Eggs Zorba ($8.49) was a zesty vegetarian affair, with spinach, black olives, red onions, tomatoes, and feta cheese crumbles mixed in with two scrambled eggs, and came with a side of home fries and a biscuit. The home fries were truly outstanding: fluffy on the inside, crisp and savory on the outside. While Kyte wouldn’t reveal exactly what spice blend BBC uses on their potatoes (they make all their spice mixes in-house), he says the predominant spice is paprika. He adds, “And salt. I love salt.”
Continuing Bisbee Breakfast Club’s tradition of excellence in potatoes, Kyte tells me that D’s Potato Cakes ($8.79) “stem from the oldest days of the original BBC.” What started as a Saturday special turned out to be so popular they put it on the regular menu, and after one bite, I could see why. The ingredients are simple: shredded potato, flour, egg, onion, a blend of spices, salt, and pepper, all grilled to a crisp golden brown. The result is a potato pancake with a creamy interior and lots of flavor that can stand up to the applesauce and sour cream toppings. It’s served with two hand-formed sausage patties with just the right amount of spice, as well as a giant biscuit both light and moist in texture.
The Huevos Rancheros ($8.49) catered to the avocado and bean-loving diner at our table, served over two crisp corn tortillas with two small flour tortillas on the side. Vegetarians and non-bacon-eaters beware: the refried beans in this dish have been doctored up with bacon fat and cheese. That said, if you do eat bacon, the beans are a rich and filling complement to the eggs, and the generous helping of guacamole with whole chunks of avocado mixed in make this a decadent take on the southwestern morning dish.
Bisbee Breakfast Club’s employee uniform is a BBC t-shirt, which displays the restaurant’s logo on the front, and a series of quotes from negative online reviews on the back. The shirt that caught my eye read: “’45 minutes for eggs is unacceptable.’ -Some Guy on the Internet.” Why give visibility to negative reviews? Kyte explains: “The shirts are an inside joke for whoever gets it, I guess. A futile attempt at taking a small slice of power back from the anonymity of the internet.” There are several versions with different quotes. Now that regulars threaten to leave bad reviews just to make their way onto a future t-shirt, Kyte says they might put some positive reviews on some of the shirts in the future. For now, I enjoyed being in on the joke, along with eggs that took significantly less time than 45 minutes.
Bisbee Breakfast Club
2936 E. Broadway Blvd
Tucson, AZ 85716